Day 20

Mileage: 59
From: Jerry Johnson USFS Park, ID
To: Lolo, MT


We had to go at least 56 miles today, since Dad says you have to ride your age on your birthday.

This morning we found the Jerry Johnson hotsprings across the Warmsprings pack bridge. We washed our hair in a hot shower trickling from a cliff with camp suds, and there was also a little pool someone had enclosed in rocks that was HOT. Unfortunately, the other pools were washed out by the cold creek. The water came from up high on the cliffy bank, and it steamed all the way down. It had to be at least 100 degrees F. Rocking good time—worth the hike/climb down. I think it was the best birthday party we could’ve given Dad.

We also climbed Lolo Pass today. The top was rough, mostly because it was really hot and there wasn’t any shade. We’re staying in the town of Lolo (not Lolo Hot Springs) in an RV park. We need to be in Missoula on Monday so that we can pick up my Rx package and visit Adventure Cycling, so we’re going to spend tomorrow doing laundry and the like.

Oh, and I almost didn’t mention… we’re in MONTANA!


Getting ready to hop in the hot spring


Dad enjoying the hot spring on his birthday


Visitor center at the summit of Lolo Pass


Photo-op at Montana sign


Lauren and I coming down the other side of Lolo Pass

Day 19

Mileage: 49
From: Grangeville, ID
To: Jerry Johnson USFS Park


Today was just wilderness; no stores, no nothing. We tried to find hotsprings, but failed. We figured out where they were, but it was too close to dark to bother hiking in, so we’re going in the morning. We’re staying in the Jerry Johnson USFS Park, and it sucks. There’s no camp host, nowhere good for a tent because everything’s grown up with tall weeds, and no showers.

Today was a long subtle climb up Lolo. It wasn’t too challenging—sort of rolling hills, but uphill on average. Lauren’s legs were killing her, so we called it a day sort of early. We had delicious Kraft grown-up macaroni and cheese with Portobello mushrooms, and we added peas. It was great, and required nothing but boiling water.

Day 18

Mileage: 58.75
From: Grangeville, ID
To: 7 mi NE of Lowell at USFS Park Apgar


Today we hit a new low. Lauren and I were mistaken for carnival folk in Grangeville. We were told we could get showers at the public pool. It was a bit of a walk from our campground, and when we got there it was only a group shower. There was a mother and some kids in their bathing suits in the shower taking forever, and the swim team was practicing.

I finally worked up the nerve and asked the mother when the swim team would be getting out of practice, and explained that we would really like a real shower and would prefer not to scar the kids on the swim team. She turned to us and asked, as politely as she could, “Are you with the carnival?” We explained that we were actually cross-country cyclists (perhaps a step above carnies, but who knows). She shoed her children out and we finally got a quick shower. I wouldn’t have bothered, but it had already been two days since we’d had a shower.

We had more flats today ☹

Tomorrow we start the pre-Lolo climb, and we won’t encounter anything for more than 70 miles.


Our Grangeville campsite before we broke camp in the morning


Lauren actually fell asleep on the side of the road... aw

Day 17

Mileage: 54
From: Riggins, ID
To: Grangeville, ID


On the way out of Riggins we stopped at a fruit stand the raft guides told us about. We sampled some pluots, and they were amazing. I had never seen them before, but they’re a cross between a plum and an apricot. We bought a couple, along with some potatoes, and Dad and I got smoked salmon and a tomato for lunch.

Today we tackled White Bird Hill, our biggest/longest mountain pass since McKenzie, after a 30 mile morning getting there. Today was HOT, but we waited out the hottest part of the day in “The Silver Dollar,” a restaurant in the town of White Bird. The lady there was very bicycler-friendly and let us relax as long as we wanted.

I didn’t think White Bird Hill was too bad, but I really don’t think they should refer to that large a mountain as a “hill.” It’s sort of insulting. Dad asked when I became such a mountain goat, but I guess something just finally clicked. Climbing seems to have gotten a lot easier for me.

We ate a restaurant dinner in Grangeville, and we’re camping in their Lions Club Park. We all had salmon, potatoes, and salad. Since we didn’t even cook dinner tonight, we each carried two potatoes over White Bird hill for absolutely no reason. After all the weight-cutting we’ve tried to do, it’s really pretty ridiculous. But we wanted potatoes while we were in Idaho!


Looking back toward the town of White Bird, ID (you can sort of see our road snaking around)


One of several breaks (notice one of the MANY previous switchbacks in the background, and the new highway way in the background)


The hills are beautiful in a different way than we've seen before

Day 16

Mileage: 9.6
From: 4 mi West of Riggins, ID
To: Riggins, ID


This morning Pim & Pam made us a huge breakfast—pancakes with fresh blueberries, eggs, homemade sausage, fresh squeezed OJ, and apricot preserves from their little orchard. It was absolutely delicious, much like dinner. We had an almost teary goodbye, and headed off to the rafting company to meet Lisa & Anna.

So today was our first real rest day! Our rafting company took two boats, and the five of us bicyclists had the one, and a family had the other. It was a great group to be with. I think the father of the kids in the other boat must have been a retired pro football player, and he was a hoot. We had a couple water cannon wars, but other than that it was pretty relaxing and laidback.

The river was pretty low for this time of year, so it was a little tamer than it could’ve been. It was still fun, and there were still some good rapids. Our guide was pretty new, but she was still good. It was nice to have everything taken care of for us for the day. The guides prepared our lunch and snacks, and we basically just sat back and relaxed. We had a nice spread for lunch, too.

Apparently we’re already famous in Riggins, because another boat group that joined us later asked, “So which of you are the world-class athletes biking across the country??” We all sort of sheepishly raised a hand, laughed, and said we’re not really world-class athletes.

We’re camping with Lisa and Anna tonight in a little free campground on the river. There are some people who seem to be living out of trailers here who are a little bit obnoxious, but it could be worse. No showers either, but it’s not like we really sweated today anyway.


The boat on the right is our's


Lisa & Anna "resting" after lunch on the beach


Left to Right: Dad, Lauren, Lisa, Me, Anna

Day 15

Mileage: 57
From: Council, ID
To: 4 mi West of Riggins, ID


Tonight I’m sleeping in my first real bed since Portland! We’re staying with the people we randomly met at One Eyed Jacks, the pizza joint in Council. Their names are Pim and Pamela, and we found them because they said they had a windmill in their front yard. Basically, it’s like we’ve died and gone to heaven.

At first we were sort of nervous coming into town, because we had passed a satanic cult (Yahweh 666) that had adopted 6 miles of highway and also had scary signs, but our new friends don’t seem to be Satan worshipers. Pim & Pam have a bed & breakfast that they rent out, and then a little one-room (but very nice) shack in the back. They are letting us stay in the big house, and we each get to sleep in our own real bed! There is laundry, cable TV, dishes, hot showers…AND they cooked us an absolutely amazing dinner and kept our wine glasses full.

Pim made beer-butt chicken, and Pam made asparagus wrapped with cream cheese and prosciutto, a delicious salad, and rolls. I even ate the chicken and prosciutto, and it was amazing (that says something coming from a vegetarian of 4 years before the trip). They were not only excellent cooks, but also great dinner company. Also, while the chicken was cooking, we had appetizers and chatted in the backyard. I have to say that their backyard was ridiculously gorgeous, along the Little Salmon river, with crazy cliffs. They say the sun “comes down” in the morning in the valley.

Tomorrow we’re meeting Lisa and Anna to go whitewater rafting. It should be fun. Pim actually has done some guiding, and they have some pretty cool pictures around the house.


Waterfall along the road to Riggins


Pim & Pam's backyard orchard


Pim & Pam

Day 14

Mileage: 48
From: Brown Lee Dam, ID
To: Council, ID


Today was nice and sort of uneventful, or else I’m just too lazy to remember/write much. Dad had a lot of flats, and it took a lot of time fixing them all. We leapfrogged with Greg all day, and it was nice to hang out with him. Greg stayed in Cambridge (the town before Council).

We ate at One Eyed Jacks, a pizza joint in Council, for dinner. Lauren started talking to a nice couple while she was filling up her drink at the fountain, hoping to figure out a good whitewater rafting company in Riggins. When they found out we were heading to Riggins, they said they had a house there, and they offered for us to sleep in their orchard and to feed us some “beer-butt chicken.” We aren’t sure we’ll find their house, but we thanked them for the advice/invite.

Oh, and we talked to Tandem USA (Lisa & Anna), and we’re planning on rafting with them in Riggins on Tuesday.

I should get to sleep, because we lost an hour when we crossed into Idaho. Not only that, but now there is also sales tax. Boo, sales tax. There are a couple of young TransAm guys sharing our park campsite, and they let us use their floor pump! Makes life easier for dad, because our little frame pump is really a lot of work.

Day 13

Mileage: 35
From: Halfway, OR
To: Brown Lee Dam, ID


At first Halfway seemed run down and sketchy, but in the morning we realized it was a really cute town. It really was a lively little town, and we were almost sad to go. The town museum curator was walking down the street next to us to open to museum for us as we were riding out, and we felt bad that we couldn’t stop and visit. We had delicious cinnamon buns from the farmers market that a lady made at 3AM this morning. Also, avocados have become our staple food. They make great snacks along with some Doritos or Sun Chips, and they also go great with lunch wraps.

So later in the day, we FINALLY crossed into IDAHO! Yay! As Lauren says, Ore-GONE. The sign was less exciting than I would’ve hoped… Just a tiny “Idaho State Line” sign.

We took a sort of half day today, because we’re getting pretty exhausted. We need a real rest day, but we’re trying to hold out for rafting in Riggins, ID. The campsite tonight in Brown Lee Dam (above it—dam hills are the worst) has an amazing view and access to the water, but is incredibly hilly, has only one entrance, and tent sites are 0.75 miles from the entrance (although the map claims it’s on route). We spent some time hanging out in the water, and then we laid in the shade on top of the un-pitched tent and read/napped. Dad says he has a really hard time not falling asleep whenever he isn’t riding because of the whole ride, eat, sleep mentality.

We had to relocate to a different tent site, because there was an incredible wind storm after the sun set. It kicked up right in the middle of cooking dinner, and we had to scramble not to lose our tent and all of our stuff. I think that must be the norm here, because now that we look around, there are a bunch of damaged tents fixed up with tarps. We made hot chocolate in the shelter of the bathroom/shower house.

Oh, I almost forgot to mention the Powerade from heaven! We were walking back across the parking lot after showering, when lo and behold… an ice cold, sealed, 32 oz, blue Powerade was just sitting unscathed in the middle of the road in front of us. It was truly amazing. We split it, and it hit the spot.


Very pretty ride


View from our snack break location


Crossing into Idaho! Ore-gone!!


Campsite number 1 at Brown Lee Dam

Day 12

Mileage: 58
From: Baker City, OR
To: Halfway, OR


Riding out of Baker we were caught by the race, and a cop car came and told us to pull over awhile and let the race go by. It was pretty cool to see up close. We even saw our friend who pointed us to the high school go by, and he waved. What was even cooler was when we rode on our touring bikes through the “feed station.” As we approached, Lauren said, “Oh no, this will be awkward….”

Everyone cheered for us and tried to hand us water, but Lauren and I were too dumb to figure out how to take it. Of course Dad, like a pro, just grabbed a bottle. The water was cold and much-needed. Lauren and I went back on foot to get some when another wave of racers came through and threw their bottles everywhere (we ducked). They were running low on water at that point, but a nice lady snuck us two bottles anyway. The bottles are pretty awesome souvenirs, with the name of the race and a cute graphic printed on them.

Late in the day we took a rest break in the town at the end of the race, and everyone kidded us that we weren't doing so well in the race. We went to a combination antique/ice cream shop. All of the locals advised us against continuing so late in the day, claiming that Halfway Hill was unrelentingly steep. It seems as if every town in the West is very proud of their hill, and they often claim we won’t make it over, or we haven’t seen a hill as steep. But this time they weren’t really exaggerating, although we were pretty worn out before we even got to the hill.

Regardless, I think it was the steepest and most unrelenting 5-mile hill we’ve seen thus far. I think it was mentally challenging, because the switch-backs were really long and straight, making it look even steeper than it was. We ended up taking frequent breaks, and decided that we might as well walk a little during our breaks (although we didn’t walk too far ever before getting back on). Towards the end, dad got some insane burst of energy and left Lauren and me in the dust.

We’re doing laundry at a Laundromat, and we’re camping outside a motel in Halfway, OR.




Walking back from the "bathroom" after lunch... The world is our toilet


Looking back at the bottom part of Halfway Hill


Our favorite sign!!

Day 11

Mileage: 63
From: Austin Junction, OR
To: Baker City, OR


We started the day with two pretty good climbs in a row. There are actually three sizeable bumps in a row on our elevation profile, but luckily we got the first one out of the way yesterday. It would’ve been rough to do all three in one day, but the two we did were doable.

Matthew told us that there was supposed to be a burger place on the top of the third climb, with 42 different types of burgers. Even I, the vegetarian of 4 years before this trip, was picturing a big juicy hamburger looming ahead of me (like the proverbial carrot) the whole way up the second peak. But alas, as I had feared, there was no burger joint at the top, or anything at all at the top, for the matter.

There was no where to eat on route for quite a ways, so we had to go three miles off route at the base of the mountain, into Sumpter, OR. We ate at a burger/icecream joint there. (We found out later that the place with 42 burgers was also there, but we missed it). We were all feeling pretty beat, so we went to check out the gold dredging museum. It was pretty neat, and now all of the signs that mention “dredging” make a lot more sense (I was wondering what kinds of canals they had here to dredge).

We were all tired (I think it might be altitude-related, with Sumpter itself at 4,424’), and we ended up falling asleep on a picnic table in the shade. Lauren and I laid on the table top with our heads in the center, and dad laid on one of the benches. After a nice little powernap, I was awoken by some lady asking us a question. Lauren answered immediately, and I was shocked she was even awake. We all bolted straight up as if we had never been asleep to talk to this lady. Later, I found out that Lauren wasn’t awake either. It was sort of strange that the lady just struck up a conversation with three sound-asleep people. She was on a driving tour of the ghost towns of the Northwest.

Tonight we’re staying at the local high school. They are hosting camping for a bike race—the Elkhorn Classic. A guy we met in the restaurant in Sumpter, OR was in the race, and he pointed us to the high school when he saw us at the grocery store. It was only $5, and they had free homemade cookies! There were also showers, albeit group showers without hot water.


Go figure, another summit sign


A gold dredge

Day 10

Mileage: 62.5
From: Dayville, OR
To: Austin Junction, OR


Today was a pretty long day. I’m beat, so I’ll keep it short.

We rode to John Day fairly early, and then waited out the hot part of the day. We met up with Lisa & Anna (the tandem team), Matthew from Eugene, OR, and Stephanie and Jim from Chico, CA. We first met that gang on our way out of Mitchell, OR, and we stayed with them last night in Dayville. While we were waiting out the hot part of the day, we cut through some horse’s home to a creek to cool off. Matthew went on a run to buy us some eggs, which we hardboiled and enjoyed. They were quite tasty. Lauren ate one, and she doesn’t even like eggs!

The climb could’ve been easier. We were pretty tired after the 40+ mile warm-up in the morning. Matthew, Stephanie, and Jim beat us by a long shot up the hill, but everyone made it in the end.

Tonight we’re staying in a restaurant’s backyard. There was a mix-up, and the lady was sort of bitchy, but oh well. Dad called ahead and the woman was very friendly, but he referred to us as a “small group of cyclists.” We showed up 8 strong, and there was a Westbound older couple already there. I think the owner thought that they were the ones that called, because she even fed them (she hinted she may feed us), but was really cold to us. Oh well—it was a place to sleep.

It’s fun to be with the big gang!


The 8 of us sort of squatted in this campground for the afternoon


Preparing to climb the horse's gate to cool off in the creek


Still pretty much at the base of the climb, taking a break and looking back


Random covered wagon along the afternoon climb


Sometimes it feels as though we're banging our heads against the wall with all of this climbing... oh wait, no, that's another summit sign, not a wall

Day 9

Mileage: 40
From: Mitchell, OR
To: Dayville, OR


The scenery today was unexpectedly amazing. There were so many really pretty rock formations, but boy was it hot. We ate too big and buttery a breakfast, and had to take many vomit-prevention breaks on the way up the first climb in the morning.

We’re staying the Presbyterian church in Dayville with a bunch of other bikers and one runner. The runner is running 30+ miles every day. He’s Swedish and hard core (you can check out his website at www.suneson.se). One guy in the church (“the red-headed guy”) is coming from the east, and he gave us all a bunch of (hopefully) helpful advice. There were showers, laundry, a real kitchen, and we (9 of us total) slept in the sanctuary. It was another Disneyland type experience.

I was supposed to have a package to pick up with my allergy medicine in it, but it didn’t make it in time…. I think we worked it out for the Mercantile to forward it to Missoula, MT.


So many summits....


Cool rock outcropping






I had no clue this is what Central/Eastern Oregon looked like...


You'll be happy to know that we did not drink and ride

Day 8

Mileage: 41
From: Ochoco Lake County Park
To: Mitchell, OR


Today was a relatively short day, and we got a much earlier start than yesterday. We climbed Ochoco Pass, elevation 4720 feet. It felt a lot easier than McKenzie, but it was less than half as long and we’re probably in better shape. The mountains are beautiful, and the scenic 7 miles downhill was great. It did get a bit monotonous climbing, and I debated getting my iPod out.

Tonight we’re staying in Mitchell. We got to our campsite around 4 PM, which was really early for us. Mitchell, OR is a sort of sad little town. Their claim to fame is a captive black bear, they have a whopping population of 170, and a bunch of closed up stores.

Tomorrow… more climbing!

We’re staying in what amounts to a playground and picnic area with bathrooms (no showers). We ate dinner and roasted marshmallows with a fellow TransAmer named Greg. Dad met Greg in Sisters. He started in Washington, but is doing similar mileage as us. He is a seasoned tourist, having completed the Northern and Southern tiers, as well as both coasts. He says his favorite was the Southern tier, but that you should start it in mid February. He has traveled the world for business and touring, and he says he’s a petrochemical engineer.


Summit!!


Cooking dinner with Greg

Day 7

Mileage: 52.5
From: Sisters, OR
To: Ochoco Lake County Park (~7.5 mi East of Prineville, OR)


By the time we got into camp last night, it was completely dark. We couldn’t figure out where exactly we were supposed to set up, and we ended up setting up on the grass in an empty RV site. Turns out, people are pretty particular about grass in these parts, and you’re not actually supposed to pitch a tent on it. We lucked out, because the manager told us that it was the only patch of grass without a sprinkler on it. I bet we get sprinkled before the trip is over….

We went to a bakery in Sisters this morning that was really good. Sisters was an adorable town. The wind was absolutely horrible today and we biked a very difficult 52.5 miles into swirling wind. We grocery shopped in Redmond and it was really expensive. New construction of roads in Redmond made it confusing to get out—we rode around a lot before finding the road we needed.


Camping on the grass... tsk tsk


Looking back on the three sisters as we left town. I don't know if you'll believe me, but they were 1000 times more breathtaking in person, and we almost didn't turn back and see them.


Reindeer farm!


We're starting to see fewer trees... :-(


Celebrating Father's Day by chopping wood and building a big manly fire

Day 6

Mileage: 45.5
From: McKenzie Bridge, OR
To: Sisters, OR


Today we rode over McKenzie Pass—4000 ft of elevation gain in ~20 mi. We made it! Supposedly the McKenzie route was closed for construction starting yesterday, but we pressed the girls at the ranger station a bit to find out more, and all but got their consent to try going over McKenzie anyway. We decided to chance it and go with McKenzie over Santiam, because who honestly starts roadwork on a Saturday? We were right to do it, because there was absolutely no roadwork and I would've hated to have missed the lava fields and the observatory! It would have been horrible had they turned us back half way through the climb. Lauren and I resolved to cry until they let us go or offered us a ride if that should happen.

We met our first TransAm tourist, Jim, and rode with him a bit and hung out with him at the top. He left Astoria on the 13th, and had rode ~60 miles today before even doing the pass. We will probably never see again, because he’s doing 100+ miles a day. He was a bit extreme. He was a faster climber, but I think he waited for us purposely at all the cool spots. He says he plans to finish in mid August, but at his rate it won’t take 6 weeks. It was really windy/cold at the top, so we came down into Sisters for warm restaurant food and a city campsite. Jim stayed at the top, and I hope he doesn’t freeze to death. He only had a 40 degree bag, so I have no idea what he was thinking.

It was really difficult, but we did it! Playing in the snow, climbing in the miles of lava fields, and seeing the view from the observatory made it well worth it. But the wine and pasta at dinner definitely hit the spot! We nearly froze coming down the other side.



Our loaded bikes outside the ranger station before McKenzie


Stalling before the climb by photographing signs...


Warming ourselves in the sun after lunch


Psh... they think they can tell us what to do?!?


Taking one of many breaks with our friend Jim


Lauren and I jumped at the chance to play in the snow in June


Lava fields and snow-capped mountains


The observatory (it had little window holes through which you could view all of the surrounding peaks with labels so you knew what you were looking at)


Summit!!!


Freezing our butts off on the descent


Beautiful view looking back on the three sisters (the mountains)